(Daily Mi: 8.8) This morning's climb up South (4358 ft) was why I came. Hit the trail at 6:30 a.m. and hammered without stopping 3000' up one of the most notorious climbs on the AT.

Some but not too much hand over hand climbing. Waterfall cascading next to me for about 1500' feet of the climb. And then the Alpine zone. The heavy wonderful smell of the dwarfed spruce. And I am on top of the world (well, at 4358 ft) alone by 8:04. At this latitude I am about 300-500' above the timberline with 360 degree views. The sky is pure blue above me but a cloud cover blankets the mountains on west to NY state at about 3500' so that only the biggest peaks stand clear.

My leg, which bothered me not at all on the way up, is a real problem heading down. At least some inflamed tendons involved.

I hit the first AMC White Mountain Hut 1.25 miles from the roadhead. It is a "hut" in the smame sense that the Breakers at Newport is a cottage, and its proximity to the road (there is a .25 mile non-AT route) coupled with the fact that it is Sunday, means it is thick with day hikers and families. Very jarring after my solo summit.

The Appalachian Mountain Club (AMC) Huts are another odd feature of the AT in the White Mountains. The AMC maintains both the AT through the Whites as well as a series of interlocking trails crossing the most poplular peaks.

All overnight facilities along the AT in the White Mountains (campsites, shelters and huts) require a use fee ranging from $8 (shelter slot) to 60.00 (for the huts). The AMC provides work-for-stay slots to long distance hikers at all of the overnight facilities. These slots are limited and available on a first-come first-serve basis.

It is possible, but difficult, to completely bypass the huts in favor of for fee campsites. It is not possible to legally pass through the White Mountains without paying to stay somewhere or working for your board.

At any rate, meet a nice Southbounding couple (the Bears) and chat while I wait for Choo Choo. It takes her almost two hours to catch me. This is a little irksome but even more worrisome. She is visibly limping and whinces with every step as she comes in. She has always been slower than me, and it was a very steep climb, but 2 hours over 6 miles is a very big gap.

Choo Choo and I walk together for the last 1.25 miles into Franconia Notch, home of the Old Man in the Mountain.

Just as we leave the hut, we meet a very strange southbounder, about 5'3 with a full beard, a great big shock of hair, wearing nothing except his pack, hiking boots and a pair of plaid mens boxers, and quite appropriately named 'Bare'.

Had to scramble about in the woods under the interstate to find a trail to local road but finally stumbled the right way and managed to hitch a ride out of a visitor's center parking lot into town about 4 miles west -- having Choo Choo w/ me makes this easier. Take a room in a hiker friendy guest house in town (find a three day old entry from the Woodman in the guest register).